Paolillo, Ida (2026) Bioactivity Screening of Natural Compounds for Pharma and Nutri-cosmetic applications. [Tesi di dottorato]

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Abstract

My PhD research focused on the biological properties of natural compounds for use in pharmaceuticals and nutricosmetics. Natural products are bioactive molecules found in plants, fungi and microorganisms. They exhibit beneficial effects due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties. In collaboration with Professor Carmen Arena of the Department of Biology at the University of Naples Federico II, I studied Brassica rapa L. sprouts grown under different LED light spectra. Red-blue (RB) light was found to significantly enhance the production of antioxidant compounds compared to white (W) light. Extracts from red-blue light conditions exhibited enhanced antioxidant and DNA-protective activity in HaCaT cells compared to extracts from white light conditions. The second part of my research focused on Staphylea pinnata, a rare Mediterranean species that has traditionally been used to treat skin and respiratory disorders. Using the innovative, eco-friendly technique of solid-phase extraction (SPE), I isolated flavonol glycosides (quercetin and isorhamnetin derivatives), which have antioxidant, antimicrobial and DNA-repair properties, suggesting potential applications in cosmeceuticals. A third study, conducted with Dr Federica Carraturo and the startup HoloBiotics Srl (a UNINA spin-off), investigated Lavandula angustifolia Mill. extracts: one derived from plant stem cells; one from leaf and flower maceration; and one from distillation by-products. Tests on an in vitro skin cells revealed antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, particularly in the stem cell extract, which increased the expression of the Mytho protein associated with autophagy and cellular longevity. The distilled extract enhanced the methylation of DNA in the cell genome, suggesting possible anti-ageing and epigenetic-modulating effects. Using distillation waste also represents an example of the circular economy and sustainable innovation. Finally, thanks a collaboration with Dr. Giovanni Dal Poggetto and Gabriella Santagata (CNR-IPCB), I developed sustainable nutraceutical formulations using grape pomace extract, which is rich in antioxidant molecules. This extract was encapsulated in Ca²⁺-pectin hydrogels to achieve strong antioxidant efficacy and controlled release. Overall, my work showcases eco-friendly strategies for the valorisation of natural bioactives in health and skincare innovations.

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